I do very much apologise I haven’t been posting any restaurant reviews dating back to May 2013, with extremely heavy work commitments the past few months or so. The average person spends 6 years and 10 months eating, as the statistics claim. Since i’ve started cooking many years back, I’ve probably added several more years, let alone months to that list. 2013 in a nutshell was incredible, having had the opportunity to travel around several spectrums of the globe just for food: Be it Taipei, Melbourne, Tokyo, London, Copenhagen and Modena. I’ve visited an average of once restaurant a week on my off days during the past year, while selecting the 13 best things I’ve eaten is somewhat a distressing task. There was no doubt what the top few would be, while the rest of the list gave rise to some considerable thought.
13. Squid, Tarragon, Red Meat Radishes. The Clove Club, London
Meltingly tender squid from cornwall cooked lightly, paired with a zesty tarragon puree infused with the unaminess of Japanese mayo. Lightly pickled radishes gave rise to a presence of texture, and a tinge of acidity.
12. Anago. Kondo Tempura, Tokyo
Sushi is very often perceived as the creme de la creme of the art of Japanese cuisine. Tempura on the other hand doesn’t get quite as much glamour. It wasn’t until my meal at Kondo that I realise the art of tempura is truly gob stopping, and if this doesn’t change your life i dont know what will.
11. Ash ” 2009″ Scene of the seashore. Narisawa, Tokyo
Sashimi grade cuttlefish precariously cooked over a charcoal grill, served with a bell pepper consomme, coulis, topped with lime ash table-side. The best things in life are sometimes the simplest.
10. Hokkaido Uni & Ikura rice bowl. Hashida Sushi, Singapore.
Top, produce, perfectly cooked sushi rice at an optimal warmth, tinge of acidity with the right amount of vinegar, need i say more?
9. Cod Liver , Caramelised Milk. Noma, Copenhagen
Essentially a cod liver torchon, frozen morsels of it are deftly sliced frozen then served. The torchon melts seamlessly as it hits the fingertip of your tongue, paired with a highly addictive caramelised milk biscuit.
8. Flame Grilled Mackerel, Cucumber, Shiso, Smoked eel. The Ledbury, London.
Brett Graham may be renowned for his game meats, the real showstopper however is the mackerel.
7. Sashimi du jour. Ryugin Tokyo.
Possibly the freshest platter of Sashimi I’ve ever had, in one of the best dining experiences ever.
6. Meatfruit. Dinner By Heston, London
Foie gras and chicken liver parfait, dipped in a mandarin gel served with grilled bread. The sherry infused in the parfait is what really brings the dish together, the creaminess of the parfait, zestiness of the gel.
5. Plight of the Bees. Attica, Melbourne
Ben shewry’s take on a contemporary bee hive is nothing but genius. Comprising of satsumas, lemon curd infused with Manuka honey that adds a really decadent fragrance to it, thyme and milk meringue, lemon and fennel granita, topped with compressed pumpkin and freeze dried apple. Incredible.
4. Dill Stones, Horseradish, Pickled Cucumber. Geranium, Copenhagen
The subtle sweetness of the dill gel masks the evident mackerel flavor slightly but pleasantly, the soothing cucumber granita cuts through the richness of the horseradish creme. Amazing.
3. Spiced Pigeon, Artichokes Ale. Dinner by Heston, London
While renditions of pigeon at Nariswa ( Milk-fed Japanese pigeon which felt too delicate at times ) and the Fat Duck ( the use of star anise in the demiglace didn’t quite cut out for me) were really good, the simplest preparation of them all at Dinner had me sold. Anjou pigeon is known for its ethereal and musky flavour, paired with a bed of deftly caramelised onions giving some tartness, artichoke barigoule and an ale demiglace.
2. Boytritis Cinerea. The Fat Duck, Bray
Heston Blumenthal’s take on a burgundian grape, I haven’t been impressed that much since the complexity of Alinea’s chocolate map.
1. How to Burn a Sardine in 3 days. Red mullet, langoustine paste, squid ink. Osteria Francescana, Modena
Gently poached red mullet marinated in lemon, stuffed with a langoustine ragout, finished with a squid ink crust. Its one of those things that vanishes quickly and you just wish you had another bite of that. Something I haven’t come across as flawless as Thomas Keller’s Oysters and Pearls. My money’s definitely on Bottura to edge of Rene Redzepi and the Roca brothers for the top spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants this coming May.
